Acapulco (April 2004)
We just left Acapulco, Guerrero, Mexico headed for Puerto Angel, Oaxaca, Mexico. We were tied up to a
mooring buoy near the Club de Yates- where we are enjoying their wonderful facilities—pool and good
Margaritas with lots of tequila—so Lou and I share one at the end of a long hot day. Martin gets on his
boogie board and skimboards from a platform in the pool that is about four inches underwater.  People
love to watch him—and think he has a lot of potential as a surfer  because of his good balance.  Oh
well…last year he wanted to be an astronaut this year- a professional surfer.

We had some canvas work done here to add some more shade—a critical component as we move south
(and east).  Our sailboat looks like a true prairie schooner—we bought a product called Shadetree to
make use of the deck when at anchor. It’s basically canvas and tent poles arched across the deck of the
boat!  It has opened up use of the deck as a dining room and a kickback and read room.  It also acts as
a wind tunnel.  I never appreciated that of the covered wagons of old.

Our passage to Acapulco from Tenacatita was almost picture perfect.  We get into such a nice routine as
a family.  We were out for three days.  No one got sick.  Everyone just hung out and enjoyed the nice
sail.  We only motored for 25% of the time—its so nice to have the motor off!!     I was sitting reading a
book (Eye of the Albatross) in the cockpit and I heard—yes HEARD a spout.  The spout was less than a
boat’s length behind us.  Then a few minutes later we saw a gorgeous humpback whale surface—this
time about a boat length to our beam (that’s to our side).  I just love being in the natural world and
feeling part of that rhythm.  

The Easter Bunny visited our boat and delivered Snickers bar—that had to be found quickly or else they
would melt.  None of the Easter Bunny part of the Easter tradition has infiltrated Mexico, yet.  Even when
shopping in a Sam’s club—yes you read that right—there were no baskets, chocolate egg marshmallows
etc.  But, what they do up big in Mexico is Semana Santa (Holy Week).  Good Friday, we were eating on
the 3rd floor of an open air seafood restaurant when we heard a commotion in the street.  We went to
the balcony and looked down to see a procession of people following a glass casket with a statue of
Jesus in it—as one could imagine he looked just being taken down from the cross.  In other words, pretty
bloody looking.  Then, on Easter Sunday we went to the Central Park in Acapulco, Parque Papagayo,
and watched a Passion play (Pasion de Cristo).  They depicted the stations of the cross - complete with
Roman soldiers vigorously whipping (the whips were made of naugahyde material) Jesus and the two
thieves.   I was impressed, though, that the women played a very active role in this depiction—they
seemed the most vocal and demonstrative against the Roman Soldiers being brutes.  It was all in
Spanish—but we understood most of it—partially because we know the story and partially because our
Spanish is getting better.  We weren’t quite sure how they did it, but Jesus got bloodier and bloodier as
the play went on.  They also depicted the cruxificion.  I never appreciated the logistics of the cruxificion
and how long it would take to put three men on crosses and lift the crosses etc.    One of Emily’s and
Martin’s assignments for Semana Santa was to study the last days of Christ and to listen to Jesus Christ
Superstar.  Emily is able to draw the correlations between the songs and the New Testament passages.  
But I think our most spiritual experiences have been out here—on the ocean---in what I feel is a very
holy place.  

We have had a wonderful first part of this passage.  We flew the spinnaker and moved Ace nicely along
the water.  Just as the sun was setting, a pod of Spinner dolphins (I think that is what they were) came
by.  I think they were Spinners because they were jumping and flipping out of the water every which
way.    We have had a few visiting boobies—they land and stay on our masthead and bimini (that is one
of the covers over the cockpit).  We don’t mind the stowaway but we do mind his lack of toilet training.   
The phosphorescence is very beautiful.  Last night there were dolphins swimming by in the night.  Their
phosphorescent glow made them look ethereal as they glided around Ace.  I was delighted and
enveloped in the absolute magic of the moment.  There are several turtle nesting beaches on the
Oaxaca coast and it is getting to be that season.  We have seen one Olive Ridley turtle.  I explained to
the kids how these turtle moms just lay the eggs and head on back to sea—never spending any time
feeding and nurturing their offspring.   You can imagine the look I received from them—you know that
“Yeah, so what’s the point” look.  

What we are reading:  

Mary-Finally finished and thoroughly enjoyed “The Eye of The Albatross”  by Carl Safina and started A
Few Short Notes on Tropical Butterflies by John Murray.  I also listened to Isabel Allende’s, “My Invented
Country” on CD.

Lou—is reading Undaunted Courage and a short story collection.

Martin- is continuing to read the Brian Jacques Redwall series.

Emily is reading both the Tamora Pierce series and the Redwall series.

We read together as a family as part of the school.  We alternate between stories in Spanish (where
Emily especially gets to correct her parents’ pronunciation) and Shakespeare stories.
Nathaniel, Emily, Kimberly, and
Martin  at San Diego Fort.  Kimberly
and Nathaniel live on Amorita, a
beautiful Kettenberg 50’ that is also
traveling to Central America.
At Acapulco’s San Diego fort overlooking
Bahia Acapulco.  This fort protected the
bay during the time of the Spanish
galleons that traded with the Philippines
in the 1600s to early 1800s.
These are the famous Acapulco
cliff-divers, posing with the crews of
Ace, Sea Kardinal, and Chipita.  The
10-yr old girl in the blue suit is a cliff
This is the 10-yr old preparing to dive
from about 60 feet.  Her father is
above her, and dove from about 100